Tag Archives: history

Dark as in Baalbeck

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Do you know which is the biggest Ancient Roman temple?

No, its not in Rome, not in Italy – nor even in Europe. Its Jupiter Temple in Baalbeck, here in Lebanon. Nowadays, six majestic Corinthian columns are still standing after centuries of robberies, earthquakes and Christian and Arab invaders – even Mongols ransacked the area in 1260s.

Temple area is a major tourist destination in Lebanon and one of the best archaeological sights in Middle East. It arouses above the Bekaa plains, in between the Mount Lebanon range and Anti-Lebanon mountain range. Bekaa itself is majority Shiite Muslim area, one of the strongholds of Hizbullah. Yellow flags of the movement, as well as pictures of the leader Hassan Nasrallah can be seen all over the road sides. Baalbeck temple area, however, is still untouched by them, but for how long, we will see.

My parents preferred to have an organized tour to Baalbeck which was quite interesting for me and Sasi. As I have studied Classical Archeology in my youth, I had my doubts on the guide. I must admit though, she was rather good. However, it was interesting to see how political her guidance was. Probably my parents and other Western tourists didnt realize, but me and Sasi, we had fun. She was careful not to mention anything religious – and this avoidance proved to go a bit too far. For example, she just said “certain parties” had clashes recently in Zahle area, and then she continued to tell about the flower festival they organize there every summer – undermining the fact there was severe fighting with heavy weaponry, leading several deaths about a month ago.

Even more interesting was the fact that she didnt mention anything about the older history of the place, before the Romans. I mean, the place itself is called Baalbeck, and the Canaanite temple used to be the temple of Baal, or actually Hadad but since his name was to be said only by his priests, the common people used Baal. Hadad was the God of the Sky, and his lover was his “virgin” sister Atarath (Astarth in Phoinician, thus Greek Astratre). So when the Alexander and the bunch came, city was renamed Heliopolis, city of Sun, and for Romans it was easy to transfer the temples: Baal for Jupiter (God of Sun), Atarath for Venus…

So called Temple of Bacchus has puzzled historians and archaeologists for long. There is clear signs it has dedicated for a young god of growth and fertility. It obviously had a mystery cult involving a loads of vine and even opium – there is poppies carved in the decorations. (Modern days, some farmers of Bekaa continue the cult in their own ways: there is notorious poppy fields in the remote hillside farms). In Baalbeck temple area, even the cult prostitution was wide.

As I mentioned, our guide didn’t tell us anything about that, and when I asked, she snapped: “Its not true!” A good Christian girl couldn’t bear the fact that the magnificent ruins of hers were the same ones they used to worship a god banned and cursed in the Bible.

There is also a small museum on the site – if there is electricity, I mean. When we visited there, electricity was cut and there was no diesel for the generator. On the wall, there was a proud placate of long list of sponsors, but had they all forgot to sponsor the most obvious…?

We have also visited the “Invaders Gallery” in Nahr el-Kalb (Dog River, or Lycos in Antiquity). There is 17 steles as marks of the foreign armies which have passed by this narrow and strategic point in Lebanon. 3000 years of history printed on this small area on the river banks. All the steles exept one are on the Southern side of the river. The one on the other side is by the Neo-Babylonian King Nebuchadnezzar II, the builder of the Hanging Gardens of Babylon and destroyer of the early Temple of Jerusalem.

Other chaps with their graffiti are Egyptian Pharaoh Ramses II who, according to Bible, was the one hurrying his troops follow Moses into the parting Red Sea. Then there is a few Assyrian Kings – and of course Alexander the Great, Romans (i.e. Marcus Antonius Aurelius or better known as Emperor Caracalla), a Byzantine governor, a Mamluke Sultan and French Emperor Napoleon III, amongst others. Unfortunately, many of the inscriptions are in a very bad shape, almost unreadable, and on the side of a busy highway. Badly neglected, like so many ancient treasures in Lebanon.

Coming to 20th century, there is a note that British Desert Corps toke over Damascus, Homs and Aleppo (in Modern Syria) in October 1918 (I think they were troops of Lawrence of Arabia, correct me if am wrong). Other inscription states that British and French troops occupied Beirut and Tripoli October 1918. In 1920, French troops under General Couraurd took Damascus over (from whom this time??).

The most important for Lebanese, however, is the inscription, where is stated that 31st of December 1946 the foreign troops were evacuated from Lebanon. This marks the independency of the nation – but not the end of the inscriptions. Latest is from 2000, when Israel troops left Southern Lebanon.

Today, by the way, there is huge celebrations especially in the Shiite areas of Beirut. International negotiations reached an agreement between Hizbullah and Israel: Hizbullah sent back to Israel the two soldiers (in coffins, of course) they kidnapped two years ago, which started the July war. Israel, on the other hand, sent back 5 alive prisoners and some 200 corpses. “A divine victory” once again to Hizbullah. Their pride starts to be unbearable soon, on the cost of a nation.

Maiku, hoping for the best, fearing for the worst.

Ps. Have a look also on Sasis blog – Sasi wrote about working (again) in Lebanon.

A dream of a queen

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I will tell you a story of a girl. Her name was Maria Antonia Josepha Johanna, but she is better known as:

We have been many times in Paris, both of us, so we didn’t bother us too much of sightseeing. One was still not experienced by both of us: le grand palais de Versailles. Boiling hot was the sun on our skins in the gardens, and the bushes whispered of ancient secrets of lovers playing hide and seek under their shadows.

After the lazy mid-day, most of the tourist queues had vanished and we entered the palace itself. Not too much need to say about it, pompouse monument of power and masculinity as it is. Much of gold and other glossy surfaces. But of course, we just had to try a small valse in the Hall of Mirrors, much to amuse for Japanese tourists.

However, Marie Antoinette’s estates were more than I could ever have imagined. The place somehow managed still build a sad picture of the queen. Her garden with artificial rivers and grottos and especially the imaginary Medieval country village Hameau were just a fairytale land escape from the court.

Marie was just 14 when she married Louis-Auguste, 15. As youngest daughter of Archduchess Maria Theresia of Austria, her destiny was doomed to be a play chip in the international politics. She was considered to be more like royal property than human being. As she moved to France, she didn’t have friends, she didn’t even speak the language.

She was desperately trying to please everyone, had she been neglected by her own mother in her childhood. Also, she didn’t get too much attention from her husband, who was more interested about technical gadgets and books. Nerdee, we might say. King was thought to be impotent, but as it turned out, he just didn’t know what to do in bed. Not before Marie’s brother, Emperor Joseph II of Austria, came to visit. After talking to king himself, Joseph was convinced that his majesty’s erection was satisfactory, but it didn’t stay long enough to ejaculate, since he had know idea what to do with it! Joseph obviously gave some tips, since Marie had her first child next year – after seven years of marriage.

Loathed by most of the court, bitched by her mother in her letters, being bored of the royal court duties and without real love she obviously escaped to her own imaginary world. She had problems with addiction of gambling, she organized wild parties and went hunting with her gang, a few closest friends. When deadly handsome and intelligent Swedish count Axel von Fersen came to the court, it is easy to imagine that she would have fallen on him. There is no real prove that they would have had an affair, but the rumours were that her second son, Louis Charles whom she called “mon chou d’amor”, would actually been Fersen’s.

Von Fersen was an adventurer and womanizer with a mistress in several countries, but eventually he had a close relationship with both Marie and the king. He tried to save them on several occasions in the unfortunate future.

Count wanted his wars though, and meanwhile unhappy Marie concentrated on her fairytale village. She build there 12 houses, of which 9 still exists (its bloody amazing that they didn’t destroy Versailles and Marie’s estates during the revolution – or maybe they had more respect on buildings than humans).

We were in the village almost on sunset. It was eerie quiet and empty, and it was easy to imagine young queen on the rowing boat trips on the lake, making out with the Swede in the Temple of Love dressed as milkmaid or shepardess. She had her own theater even, where she used to sing and have role in plays.

She was a sort of misunderstood blondie of her own time, a bit like Britney Spears – too young to handle the fame and money, used by others – the difference being that Britney didn’t come to her senses after having children unlike Marie.

I somehow felt she had enchanted us since when we tried to leave, we noticed the gates had locked and we were alone in her estates. Surrounded by a wall and a trench, it seemed we have to overnight there with thousands of frogs croaking ear-breakingly. I tried to assure Sasi to kiss one of them just to see what would happen. He refused, coward.

Finally, we managed to find a small, open gate next to pigsty of the village. The charm faded and we were soon back on a busy French highway hitch-hiking our way back to train station, me wondering if it would be time to see that Sofia Coppola film. Is it any good?

Fairytale-teller Maiku

PS. She never said that cake thing.

Loosing the grave

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When you say Cote d’Azur, you usually think of sun, beach, party and fun but for me it was money, nice yachts, and luxury. We were in Monaco and I was dreaming of living there, we were in Nice and I dreamt of living there, and then we went to Cannes (well, you know the red carpet is all what there is to see there).

Anyhow, south of France was awesome until 18.30 on that day, when we were supposed to take a bus from Le Cannet to Aix En Provence. But, to our surprise, the driver said that we should have bought tickets before – we hadn’t since the tourist office (two of them, in fact) said we buy them from the bus. Well that basically changed our trip, since we got really fed up. So we decided to take an overnight train from Cannes to Paris and ended up here on the next morning.

We have been hosted by a real nice Lebanese family in a little town out of Paris. Now, we have been in Paris for a week or so and its been fun for both of us and relaxing, me seeing my friends that took most of our time, and then going to many interesting places and some days taking it easy.

One of our amazing visits was when we went to Cimetrie du Pere Lachaise , Maiku’s favorite dead hangout zone. We visited Jim Morrison (whom Maiku loves but I didn’t know who he was), Moliere, Lafontaine and my dear Edith Piaf. Well yes, if you cant see stars when they are alive, visit their graves later.

So while hanging out in Pere Lachaise we met this old French lady. Her first words where: “I have lost my husband’s grave”. In fact, I want to dedicate this post to Mme Di Stefano. This 85 year old lady didn’t remember the place of her husband grave. She had been sick for a while and couldn’t come to put flowers or clean the grave, since “it has shifted place”. Well Maiku made a great effort finding Mr. Di Stefano. It was found, and we saw that the Madame had made inscription to the stone ready for her self too. And then, this fragile lady burst in tears, and she told us the story of the old lovebirds that have been separated by death after 50 years of marriage. Very sad and true how lonely we are when we loose a partner.

a bientot et bisous from Paris

Sasi

Pope and Ferrari

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I think that money is everything; religion and money are the soul of our world. Vatican was an amazing fortress of a very, very rich organization; yes, my religious faith has shaken a bit after seeing the mighty of the Vatican City. Did Jesus need all this gold and huge basilicas and fancy cars and fancy clothes – oh, and not to mention that the holy city had its own fake Prada salesman on its sidewalks?

They charged us in Vatican 14 Euros per person to visit the huge museum which hosted the biggest art pieces of the history, and then we had a lovely visit to the Sistine chapel where all the action happens (during conclave, when they choose the new pope). Sistine chapel was a heaven of art. Gosh how beautiful were those frescos by Michelangelo, the beauty of every detail was amazing! Shame we couldn’t get pictures since the Vatican sold the copyrights to some Japanese TV channel. Why not sell everything there?!

Saint Peters Basilica was a huge place, my favorite style of churches since I have seen so many styles there in Italy. We visited pope JPII grave and all the popes tombs in the crypt. Oh, and we skipped the tourist line (of course we did, I am married to a genius woman that knows all the secret passages of the Vatican).

I have been amazed by the Vatican and by Rome. Rome, in fact, was such a noisy place and full of tourist that I was so fed up of it even I have loved it. I had great time clubbing with the Romans and of course during my visits to Forum Romanum and Colosseum. It has just too much to offer.

But then the peace came, cleanliness, rules and what reminds me of Helsinki a bit; Nice and France. I feel again home here and I can practice my French, I feel more home at Monaco (only if I would be that rich, gosh money can buy it all).

Monaco – the heaven of the wealthy people – was an amazing experience and again grace a la Bella Maiku, we had the great fun and did the see the most interesting part of it. We went backstage of the Formula 1 preparation area, sneaked in fact! It was hilarious to be there to see the pit stops and walk on the lane itself where the F1 cars will drive in a few weeks. Then we went to Casino and again Maiku’s good luck played back: we won some $$$$! (Oh, it’s Euros but don’t have the sign in the keyboard!)

Anyhow, the trip continues and now am officially done with the Madonna and Bambini. God save me from what other kind of museums wait for me in France, but then I had the last 3 days a great relax here in Nice. I mean no offence to Italy; it was a beautiful country and reminded me so much of home in Lebanon, but I am officially done with pizza and pasta for a while now.

France is simply the next stop. It was about time we move, I got so much used on this lifestyle now that it became for me a habit to pack every 2 days my mini house and move on, we are gypsies after all!

Sasi

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Aeternitas

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Some say you would need a lifetime to discover Rome. For us, a week was enough. Not because the city itself, but just it was too crowded, too noisy. It was a long school holiday in Italy and Italian tourists had conquered the eternal city – alongside with Americans.

So we spend quite a long time in ticket lines and other queues. I dont know if it was worth it. I personally had a bit hard time in Rome. I just felt sad that the once mighty city had fallen in to hands of modern barbarians. While walking on the Forum Romanum, I had such a deep feeling of lost. In medieval times, it was a meadow of cows. The buildings were not destroyed by the attacking barbarian tribes but the Romans themselves; they used the stone material and pillars for new buildings.

But the worst of them was the church. While building their bunkers of God, the papal institution destroyed and robbed classical treasures ruthlessly. In Vatican museum, there is this one fresco in the ceiling which describes that well: in the front of a crucifix there is a classical statue smashed in to pieces. It seriously feels they had the Bible on the other hand and a sledgehammer on the other. And what they didnt destroy, they stole to their private papal collections.

I think we both had a bit of a “loosing my religion” -feelings in Italy. Sasi, the former Catholic school boy, was really angry time to time, especially to the hundreds of “Madonna e bambini” -paintings. And it is quite hard to understand why church should collect this kind of wealth to itself. Not to mention other stuff; like Savonarola’s stakes of vanity in Firenze, where he burned books and pieces of art if he decided them to be too earthly. Its nonsense to blame Muslims of this kind of actions, Christian church has done it for decades – and still does: Vatican has continously a list of forbidden books.

Aeternitas was and still is my favourite word in Latin – eternity. For me, it symbolizes the classical continuity. In hectic modern Rome, it was hard to find. But finally I managed, and the place was truly perfect: Ara Pacis Augustae, the peace altar of Augustus. This masterpiece of classical sculpture is now located inside of a completely modern building designed by Richard Meier. Italians outraged of the modern white-and-glass building next to Baroque ones. Their loss. Building is stunning, and I think combining Roman era art and modern art is just the right thing to do; Romans did that themselves in their times, with Greek, Etruscan, Phoinician etc. art and techniques.

So in Ara Pacis, no ticket queues, not even line to ladies toilet (!!) – and what a marvellous silence.

Rest in pieces, my beloved Rome. We are now in Nice, France.

Maiku