Tag Archives: Beirut

From Sin city to Sim city!

Our next destination was Thailand and from here we are supposed to start our South-East Asia trip but, definitely we always get complications. The weirdest of them all is usually my beloved Lebanese passport which requires visa applications to get into any country except Lebanon :)

So we went to the Thai embassy in Cairo and things did not go as we expected. They were not willing to be helpful neither issue a visa for a non-resident in Egypt so decision was made to get my ass back to visit home and see my parents and get some Asian visas back in Beirut.

Beirut was a small paradise after noisy crowded and hell-alike Cairo, like a yoga class; I had a guest coming from Cairo, and we decided to go tour the downtown and believe it or not, on a Sunday it was like a ghost town. That busy summer crowd was no longer there, it was just all my Beirut.

No cars, no people, nobody on the streets and the fall colors had taken over the city, yellow and red trees and very nostalgic quiet surrounding in the downtown area. I felt sad that nobody from my friends was there except maybe 2 of the many people I have known since childhood or from school or university.

It was a ghost immigrants city, everybody i asked about was either in Dubai, Doha, UK, France, Canada etc… they all live as soon as they get the chance to go make more $$$ abroad and exploit their business oriented brains. Something nowadays I feel lacking in me!

So, from Lebanon to Thailand was another part of the big journey that gets to be more interesting and get us more to miss home, Finland that is, and gets us to miss having dinner with friends and being in one place again even if there is huge winter storms and lots of snow.

Beirut is nothing like the past, it is slowly walking towards a bit civilized place. Well, of course we Lebanese neither need traffic lights, even if they are installed but come on, what the heck, you don’t need those. The city was very elegant and clean compared to Cairo i can say, and there was some preparations for the Beirut Marathon.

The trip didn’t exclude a visit to sinful Gemmayze where the botox/silicone girls have created their hangout zone and occupied the newly hip area of Beirut, where young and rich and fashionable girls and guys flirt with the night showing their elegance and speaking all kind of foreign languages. Just as if you would be in Milano or NY but on a smaller scale.

Coming to Bangkok was like a big WOW. I had this impression that this part of Asia will be poor and won’t have any signs of being modern and advanced but, to my big shock the skyscrapers were waiting for me when I arrived at night after a long delayed flight of 18 hours.

Bangkok seemed like what I have seen in the movies about Hong Kong, Malaysia, and Tokyo: it has lots of tall buildings and huge organized toll roads and traffic lights and very advanced customer service oriented people and, as they say it in the airport when you arrive: Welcome to the land of smiles!

Well nobody smile for free, but here they are freindly and smiley and they definately know how to be a touristic destination with their cheap delicious food and amazing Thai massage (the real one, not the kind you find in red light districts in Europe).

Oh, about Sim city, remember that game that many of us played when young: that’s how Bangkok looks like really. We are staying in a street called Khao San road, this street which known to be the wildest street of Bangkok. Well, its the place to be for wild Swedish teenagers who keep fucking and puking on the streets. It also attracts many backpackers due to it´s cheap accommodation and restaurants spread into smaller streets and alleys forming like a huge labyrinth where everything forms and folds and unfolds in moments like in that game.

Walking there includes finding the typical Thai dishes sold on the street by Thai people dragging their small movable kitchen on a trolley and, believe me they do the best Pad Thai there. And you get the freshest fruits ever, I had the chance to even try dragon fruits and enjoy looking at other eating deep-fried cockroaches.

The whole are gives you a feeling of being in Sim City. Anyway, its all about the fun of trying new things and discovering new things. Bangkok Sim City of 2009 for sure. All move, all go, all new and all old.

More to come about Bangkok in my next blog, keep tuned to MaikuSasi and we would like to hear your comments and travel tips from Asia.

Sasi

Maiku continues a bit: Its so easy in here after Middle East. No hassle, no shouting, no one stares at my tits. What a bliss. Its so clean, organized, advanced. I just remembered why I fell in love with this city long time ago.

But something has changed: am too old for Khao San road. Especially the cheap guest houses. When I came alone for a few days before Sasi came, I went to this place I had stayed years ago. It was two o’clock in the afternoon, and I could hear clearly an example of Swedish sex life behind the paper-thin bamboo wall, not just uuhs and oohs but… well, ALL. And so did the Thai police officers who had come to write a report of a robbery of another Swedish couple next door. They wrote their notebooks very concentrated and ears red.

In the night I woke up bitten: bed bugs. I had a full-blown attack of really vicious type who bit me even through three layers of clothes. At 5 o’clock I went to sleep in the floor crying since I was so tired after a sleepless night flight from Cairo. In the morning, I woke up with my right eye swallowed closed, and huge itchy spots all over my body.

Maiku's Eye

Maiku's Eye

Packed my bag, changed hostel, bought a huge bottle of pesticide and went to doctor to get an anti-histamine injection to my ass. But I still love Bangkok.

Pimp my husband

There is things I wouldn’t believe to happen in my life. Like this now: a great deal of our current income is based on prostitution. Directly.

Let me explain how this happened. As you might know, Sasi has been working in one of the fanciest hotels in Beirut. This luxury hotel has mainly costumers from Gulf countries, stinky rich Arabs who come either on business or to party and shop in liberal environment here in Lebanon. For the most of the male costumers it is a habit to have “massage” when they come.

Sasi tried to keep out of this massage business as long as he could. Until his boss toke him aside and basically intimidated: he is either to be fired or he has to call the girls. “We just offer massage services for costumers”, he claimed, “its between them what happens in the room, its the girls who make the choice”.

So now he calls the girls if needed. She goes up to the room, does the business and charges 100USD per hour. Half to the girl, half to the front desk personnel to be shared. It means at least 500 USD extra to us in a month. For me, its quite strange feeling. My feminist-oriented mind has difficulties to cope with this. But my comfort is that the girls are truly business-women, and obviously doing that without any forcing – if we dont count the male-dominant, fancy-lifestyle society where normal salaries are not enough to live like princesses.

Lebanon has a long roots of being a safe heaven for luxury prostitution. The phenomena is so widely spread and common that the major Lebanese French-speaking women magazine Femme wrote long article about it in its August edition – and sort of praising how good money that is for the student girls. Costumers are not only from tourists but also from local politicians, Army officials, businessmen… Pretty and highly educated girls can earn 500 – 1000 USD per a man in a day, even more, and precious gifts on top of that. So now I have an explanation of all the label items I have seen. Prostitution is so wide that even I personally know some Lebanese people who have had sex for gifts or money – and they are not even trying to hide that.

Lebanese girls can also be contacted in internet

Lebanese girls can also be contacted in internet

Sasi tells about the normal life in the hotel: A man from the room XXX called to as massage at 5 afternoon, and “please, can you ask Cat to come”. So he phoned Cat, and she mused: “From room XXX? That guy AGAIN?” Obviously the man sends his wife to shopping every afternoon and takes “a nap” in meanwhile…

Girls are rather busy these summer season months. Once Cat came to hotel swiping sweat from her forehead: “Am so tired, haven’t slept for two days, too many costumers: 8 in X-hotel, 6 in Y and now 2 in here!” She can earn 1000-2000USD per a day, easily.

Sometimes the girls get lucky. There is a true Pretty Woman story on Lebanese style: Madame N used to be a call girl, until she met a Saudi prince. Prince married her and now she is a real princess, with title and all. And she haven’t forgot her old friends: Sasi knew her already from the time he was still living in Lebanon and working in a smaller, cheaper hotel, where Madame N used to bring high-profile costumers on hourly basis. Sasi’s job was just to close his eyes. Now, when she saw Sasi again, she gave him a tip of 100USD. And I spend that money on my trip to Syria! Weird…

Now I just have to hope my husband don’t bring work to home… :)

A bit confused, Maiku

Beirut – nightlife or nightmare?!

Lebanon seems to enjoy a fabulous summer. The flights are full, full with tourists and emigrants heading back home.

Tripoli has been suffering from huge instability, I guess it’s paying the price so that Beirut can enjoy the beauty and the beast show. The beauty is taking over the Lebanese capital, and I mean beauty is nothing than pretty cars, fancy jewelery and beautiful (silicone) ladies. Does the word beautiful even describe these goddess of the Beiruti nightlife.

Nightlife in Beirut is a must see experience. With a few thousands US dollars and a few local high society friends, and of course a nice fancy suite and car you could be a king surrounded by the divas of the Middle East. From Sky Bar to White, and to Gemmayzeh street bars, and then to the famous downtown Beirut, you can stroll around with these plastic people. It is all a bubble.

And then comes the question, have we escaped the bubble really? It seems to the eye of a tourist that this is la vie en rose to be here. Great hospitality, extraordinary food – the Lebanese mezze is outstanding but tends to be heavy on the belly.

It starts like poor Cindrella’s nightmare: at 6 PM they head out of work, they go home and rest a bit on Facebook, then go to hairdresser – which is a daily must – make-up and get ready. At 10 o’clock dinner in Gemmayzeh or some of the malls, at 12 o’clock to the fancy clubs, from a whore house to another and then 4 o’clock party at the after party place (with loads of party drugs involved). Breakfast at 7 and then another after party on the beach lying down after being high. High yes, Lebanon is the place to deal with all kind of relaxants and mind blowing experiences. Oh and poor Cindrella, imagine her in a party with tons of competitive fake boobs and huge lips cat fighting over her rich (hopefully foreign) prince. My dear Cindrella , nobody will blame you for not choosing Lebanon for your next fairytale.

The wildest part of it all is that they complain that their life is miserable and they are unhappy, that life costs are high. Well credit life is a must here for sure. You are nothing if you don’t have label clothes and nice ride, so it means that all that average 500 USD monthly salary is for no good and you need credit cards. A bunch of them. And then you leave your electricity bill unpaid.

The worst side of this whole night for intellectual (read: mostly any Westerner) is that there is no conversation that makes sense during this whole night, its all about their beloved shopping trips in Paris, their nice cars, their awesome girlfriends or boyfriends and their fortunes. It is all a shallow world, so shallow and thin that it is like a floating toilet paper on a water bed. The shallowness of this lovely society, in which me and Maiku are taking the joy to live in for this period of our trip, a period which has been envied by so many. Who wouldn’t wanna be be part of it :)

The most holy nights are in Beirut, ladies and gentlemen, and you are most welcome to visit us here and we would be glad to show you real silicon valley, and botox tested on the prettiest girls of the Middle East.

Sasi, a Beiruti slave for the daddy pays/dual nationality holder Lebanese society.

PS: Check out Maiku’s another, brand new photo blog of her previous trips – here

Magic of the Night

You forgive everything to Beirut in the night.  Beirut, maniacally she is gasping the fresh breeze and sighing of relief to be quiet of its people. Lurid makeup of neon lights is gone, moonlight softens her pock-marked face, once beautiful.

Behind the lace of iron gates, buildings like fool countesses quietly whisper to each others, remembering the times better, times long gone, flirting languidly with nightly pass-byers on blinks of their cracky window shutters. Secretly, they air their moth-eaten velvet gowns and mossy fur coats, their jewels but broken glass in the daylight.

Behind the gates, in the secret gardens with magnolias and palms, the shadows of the slim cats are tigers and ripe mangoes are dropping over the walls, their rich juice spilling to the street like secret. The scent of jasmine makes wanderers crazy, in co-operation with the pale moonlight it lures to mistake white marble for white skin.

In the night, you can almost love this old slut. She used to be goddess.

you’re the night, Lilah
a little girl lost in the woods
you’re a folktale
the unexplainable
you’re a bedtime story
the one that keeps the curtains closed
I hope you’re waiting for me
cause I can’t make it on my own
I can’t make it on my own

-Morphine, The Night

Thats all folks, good night.

Maiku

Philosophy of the taxi drivers

This blog was primary meant to be a travel blog – but since we are now sort of stuck here in Lebanon for a time being, I cant help to write some observations of the society in here.

Me and Sasi, we are constant cause of wonders in here. We have now been married for almost two years, and according to the society, we should have two kids already. Or at least one! I don’t even want to know what kind of questions my poor mother-in-law has to encounter on the matter, and luckily enough all those comments are somehow softened before they come to me. I think my beloved husband has tried all his best to explain all the nosy relatives that 1, the baby would not be very comfortable in the backpack 2, having a baby in Finland involves money (which obviously means to have some sort of decent job in there) and 3, we don’t WANT a baby yet. Deaf ears, though.

Sasis grandmother gave us a speech of her own. It was a heart-braking story of her own life. “I didn’t love my husband first when we married” she said, “only after we had a baby. I was 13 then, what did I know about love or life? Only when I was a mother, then I was able to love my husband”. My dead lord, which girl age of 13 knows anything about those issues anyway? And IS supposed to know? Oh, in case you are wondering: husband was 34 when they married, and never an easy man to live with, as far as I have understood. I didn’t have the heart to ask how much her parents have pressured her to marry him, or maybe they didn’t, who knows. Some day, I will ask. The story, however, didn’t quite work the way she wanted, I was just more sure as ever to mature first before even considering to be a mum.

Beiruti taxi drivers are famous (or notorious) of their chit-chattiness. For me, its usually the normal “how do you like Lebanon” -shit, since my Arabic is not very fluent yet, and their English is also quite basic. Of course, when it comes to have a dispute about the prize of the drive, am very, VERY fluent on coursing in perfect Lebanese. A skill well trained, believe me. When (on rare occasions) I meet an honest taxi driver, am usually so touched am almost in tears. For some reason, these honest drivers are usually Muslims. Dunno why.

Anyhow, Sasi usually tells me stories about his conversations with taxi drivers. Before – still in last summer- their favourite subject of talk was politics, as it is for all the Lebanese. No small talk about the weather (well, its the same day by day anyhow) its all about politics. But for taxi drivers, it has become a bit too hot topic after the shoot-outs two months ago. So one of the taxi drivers informed us its not very clever to keep radio on in the taxi anymore. Taxis are so called servis in here, shared with strangers that is, and you never know with whom you are in there with. As it happened to him, he had radio on in his cab and two of his costumers were supporting opposing political parties. During the news broadcast, they started to fist-fight, and driver had to kick them out to the street. After, he has been careful not to listen to the news while he has costumers.

One time one driver told us he has newborn twins. The twins, on the other hand, were still in hospital and he couldn’t go to even see them since he didn’t have the money to pay the hospital bill – and the kids were a sort of hostages in there. No social security in here, folks. But still they insist to have kids.

So every morning when Sasi goes to work, he has the same conversation over and over again: two years of marriage and no kids??? Whatta… One driver asked if we both have tested in case of infertility and helpfully offered a name of a doctor his cousins son went to… When Sasi said we don’t even want children yet he was just numb with astonishment.

Usually, a helping of old fashioned wisdoms is offered. How life is not complete without children, how marriage is not complete without children. They think, honestly, that there cant be love without babies. Like the driver today said to him, baby will mature your relationship, and also will fill your time and you wont be bored in your life anymore. Sure as hell. Sasi laughed: no need for shrinks in this country, taxis offer a free consultation on every ride!

Today, it is the Eve of St. Elias day, one of the major Maronite Christians’ saints. Kids in this Christian neighbourghood are shooting fireworks and crackers – or to put it better: shooting each others with them. Am not joking: I just witnessed a scene from the balcony where a bunch of boys had Roman Candles in their hands, shooting them towards another bunch of boys who flung some crackers on them as counter strike, daddies laughing approvingly nearby, as long as the bangers don’t hit the cars. In case this happens, they get a slap on the back of the head, but when a sparkle hit next-door-neighbourgs son, the heroic boy got a pat from his dad (aged about 25).

On the light of the exploding fireworks, in the walls of their homes you can see pockmarks of real rockets from not so long ago. Inside, the older generation (like my mother-in-law) shivers with post-traumatic stress reaction every time there is a louder bang, but no one tells the kids about the civil war, especially not the school books. Blessed amnesic nation.

Maiku