About half an hour before Jakarta, the views from train window changed from lush green rice paddies to shackles, trash and more trash. These slums and shackles accommodate thousands of dwellers, who have moved from countryside to the capital in hope of better life and jobs. I think it would have been better off in the rural area, where you can at least grow your own rice and vegetables.

Kids playing literally in between of the train tracks while their mums washing laundry on really dirty looking water sources – which probably serves also as drinking water wells. Fathers (if around) collecting garbage like plastic bottles and cardboard to sell, to get some money to buy food. I assume there would be days when the family stays hungry. Not a chance to school or medical care, not a chance to get out – unless some miracle happens. It doesn’t.

The contrast to the central Jakarta is huge: sky scrapers, fashion boutiques, good cars. For us, Jakarta was mainly just an unavoidable destination to fly out. So the only day we had in there, we had already earlier decided to use for a zoo visit. I had read from Jakarta Post daily that there was four white tiger cubs been born just few days before, and also I wanted to see the Komodo Dragons since we didn’t had a change to visit the island itself.

To get to the zoo, you have to take a city bus. So we were waiting for one in the bus stop, and when the right number arrived, Sasi asked the money charger if it goes to the zoo. “Yes, to the monkeys”, he confirmed happily and had a little monkey imitation dance as well just to make sure. When we had to change to another bus, Sasi asked again, and this time both him and the money charger (different guy obviously) had the monkey dance. It seems Indonesians like monkeys the best.

The zoo itself was a bit shocking sight what comes to the living standard of animals. By development country measures, it is actually rather good, but the Third World zoo standards are far from the European ones. Having said that, the living conditions of the animals in the cages were far, far more better than countless human beings we saw during the trip.

Some of the much-liked monkeys seemed quite apathetic, just sitting and staring, some even begging for treats. Same with most of the bears except the ones which were neurotic. Orangutans lied on their backs looking like extremely drunken hobos. We also wondered if the Komodos were tranquilized. Thinking back, it seemed as the whole zoo would have been high. Apart from big cats, which seemed mostly irritated and bored.

We didn’t first find the white tigers at all. I even learned the word in Indonesian when asking directions to ‘harimau putih’. At last, there was one male. But no cubs or their mother. I had assumed though that they would be out in public since they were still so small. I was disappointed anyway. But then Sasi wandered a bit further and came back to me eyes glittering: you have to come here fast!

He had managed to find the care-keeper of the tigers, and had agreed with him to take us to see the puppies. So backstage we went, and he rolled up a plastic cover of one cage. And there they were, four cubs and their mother. The cutest little things ever, pure white and fluffy, shining blue eyes just barely open. They couldn’t yet walk properly since they were only about two weeks old. We were not allowed too close not to disturb the nursing mama, but even from a bit further and behind the bars, it was still the experience of a lifetime.

Sorry about the bad picture quality, had to take them obviously behind the bars and without flash.

And the names of the little ones?
President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono named after four Indian white tiger cubs Ayu, Asri, Kasih, and Sinar in Ragunan Zoo.
“Kasih is to love others, Ayu is beauty, Asri is for the environment, and Sinar is a light of kindness,” President Yudhoyono explained about the meanings of the cubs` names.
The four tiger cubs, consisting of three females and one male, were born in the zoo on December 26, 2008.
ANTARA News

(Indian? I guess the daily means Bengal tiger.)

THIS, by the way, is an excellent tiger site.

Maiku, who loves tigers.

Ps:
On isot valkoiset tiikerit karanneet,
on kadonneet jäljet länsituuleen.
Ja rukous kiirii moskeijaan hiljaiseen kun
isot valkoiset tiikerit katoaa pimeyteen.
-Dingo